Day 6 – Antsirabe

Today was the day I would finally see where Nadine was born and spent her first 17 years.  Tsiry rented an 18-passenger van and driver for 2 days, which would be our transportation.  Antsirabe is a town about 180 km south of Antananarivo, and the road to get there is in pretty good shape.

As a bit of an aside, the current President of Madagascar has been working hard to improve the infrastructure.  As a self-made businessman, he understands the importance of a good transportation infrastructure if the economy is to improve.  Therefore, it has been a project of recent years to rebuild much of the failing road network.

The Drive to Antsirabe

The road to Antsirabe from Tana is full of twists and turns as it winds its way through the mountains and valleys of the interior of Madagascar.  It is very scenic, and I took many photos along the way.

Below is a local moving a load of bricks, which is a very common sight here.  You also see piles of brick like this at the side of roads everywhere.  Actually, many of the locals make this brick at the side of the roads near the rivers and rice fields.  You see them forming the red clay into bricks and then baking them in fires at the side of the roads.  All brick is pretty much made locally–almost on site.

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Here we see the locals doing laundry in the river.  I don’t know if the dirty water actually makes the laundry cleaner.

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Another of the many red-coloured rivers…

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Stone route marker along the highway.  RN7 (Route Nationale #7)…

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We stopped at a marketplace of artists along the road (I didn’t get a photo of the place, but it was quite nice).  I purchased a nice canvas painting of a zebu cart being pulled along the Alée des Baobabs.  We bargained and I got it for 150,000 FMG, which works out to about $12.  Of course, it will probably cost me about $200 to have it framed when I get home.  I’m told that prices in stores are largely firm.  However, when purchasing from shops like this, the rule of thumb is to offer 1/3 of the asking price.

Here’s a picture of Bridge crossing the highway just down from the market where we stopped.

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Zebus resting at the side of the road…

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Our mini-bus transportation…

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Railroad underpass.  Note it’s only 1-metre gauge in Madagascar…

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Nice valley along the road…

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Red cliffs…

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Another river picture…

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A bridge I don’t think I would want to cross…

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Large area of rice fields and other crops…

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As we got closer to Antsirabe, the crops moved from being lots of rice fields to more and more vegetables.  Apparently, Antsirabe is known as the best place in Madagascar for vegetables.

Arrival in Antsirabe

We arrived in Antsirabe around lunchtime, checked into the hotel and had some lunch before exploring the town.  Below is a picture of the front of our hotel in Antsirabe.  It’s nothing fancy, but it was comfortable.

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Below is the house that Nadine lived in during her high school years.

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Route d’Ambositra–A street on the way to school…

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Shortcut to school along the railway tracks…

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Nadine’s primary school…

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Train station in Antsirabe…

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Hotel des Thermes—Nice hotel we didn’t stay at…

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Visy Gasy—Source of thermal water…

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A road on the way to Nadine’s mother’s farmland…

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The road in front of Nadine’s mother’s farmland…

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Nadine’s mother’s farmland…

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One the way to the family plot…

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This is the site of the house Nadine was born in.  In the foreground, we see the remains of the original family house.  In the background is the family tomb where Nadine’s mother, her grandparents, and other generations of her mother’s family entombed.  Ancestral traditions are very important among Malagasy families.  Ancestors are often celebrated through exhumations.  The Malagasy and some other Australian tribes are the only people who practice exhumation.

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Nadine’s mother’s family tomb…

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Debris of the other family house, which we did not expect to see destroyed…

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After visiting some family sites in Antsirabe, we went to a local store for a few things.  Even out here, you can still buy Mentos!

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I changed some Euros for some local currency.  The stack of bills you see are all 10,000 MGA (50,000 MGF), the largest denomination they have.  This large stack is what you need to carry around in place of only 500 Euros.  This is 1,310,000 Malagasy Ariary (6,550,000 Malagasy Francs).  I didn’t convert all my Euros at once, because of the thickness of the local currency I would need to carry around.

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Instead of converting money at a bank, Tsiry recommended a jeweller that would offer a better rate.  The jeweller needs Euros to purchase gold and silver abroad, and I needed Ariary for my stay, so this worked out well.  We traded for 2,620 MGA = 1 EUR, and the bank was only offering 2,500.

After a stop back at the hotel to freshen up, we took rickshaws down to a local restaurant for dinner.

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Day 5 – Exploring Tana

We spent our first night in Madagascar, and the hotel was very comfortable, and I’m almost used to the time changes.  After a breakfast on the terrace of the hotel, Tsiry picked us up at front of the hotel.

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I was very curious to see more of what life is like here, and was excited to learn that Nadine’s nieces were performing in a show at their school today (their last day before the Christmas break).  I suppose this was something like a Christmas show we would have at our schools in Canada, but without snow and it was outside.  Here are some pictures from the school.

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We then drove around, touring more of the area, visited a crocodile farm, had lunch and then explored the area some more.  We also spent some time resting at the hotel since the heat and sun can get very tiring.  Temperatures have been about 32°C during the day.  Below are a few pictures from the day.

Chameleon we nearly hit with the car…

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Lemurs at the crocodile farm…

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Lake Anosy in downtown Tana…

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Tsiry’s convertible…

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Here’s a Ford dealership in Tana.  I also saw a few Toyota dealers.

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Day 4 – Arrival in Tana

The trip from Toronto to Antananarivo is just under 15,000 km, with the final leg from Paris representing about 60% of the total flight distance.  After a long flight from Paris, still without any sleep at all, we were finally approaching Antananarivo.

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Below are some photos I took from the plane.  The bright green fields next to the bright red rivers and red soil is an amazing sight!

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When we landed, I think it was about 6:00 AM local time (UTC+3).  Below are some photos of Ivato Airport (TNR) near Antananarivo.  I took these from the plane, but was not allowed to take any photos while in the airport or on the tarmac.

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We proceeded inside the terminal building to get our visa.  It cost about 30 Euros total, and they never asked any questions.  I handed them my passport and a completed form on the purpose of my visit, and in assembly line fashion, a series of people added stamps and other things into my passport.  After it was reviewed by a couple more people at end of the assembly line, my passport was returned to me.

We claimed all of our baggage and proceeded through a brief customs inspection and then out of the secured area.

We met Nadine’s sister Anita, her husband Tsiry, and their children Maya, Océane and baby Mattieu.  After an emotional reunion, we walked to their car and we drove to their place in Ambohibao on the main road to Tana.

There aren’t as many cars on the road as in Paris, but the drivers here make the drivers in Paris look good.  I now see why car rental agencies here only rent cars with drivers.  It is a constant high speed game of dodging pot holes, bicycles, zebu carts, and pedestrians along a narrow road.  I’m not sure how to describe it, and I think it just needs to be experienced.  Over the coming weeks, I’m sure I’ll get some good photos of the driving in Madagascar.

We arrived at Anita’s place, and I didn’t get many photos, but I’m sure we’ll be back here many times over the coming weeks.  We received a tour of their nicely decorated and furnished apartment, which is located above the office supply store that Anita owns.  The place is on a hill with a fabulous view off the back balcony.

We unpacked our suitcases so we could unload the Christmas gifts that was taking up so much space in them.  While Nadine and Anita got caught up, I decided to ride along with Tsiry while he dropped the girls off at school.  We then returned to the house for breakfast before Anita opened her store and Tsiry left for work.

Here are some photos of Anita’s store.

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Below is a zebu cart across the street.

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In the morning, Nadine’s stepmother Lala, stepbrother Ritou (short for Richard) and his fiancée Elodie came by to visit.  Pictured below are Anita, Nadine, Lala, Ritou and Elodie (from left to right).

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Around noon, we went upstairs (stores are closed from noon until 2) and enjoyed a wonderful lunch of many local dishes, including zebu steak (very nice).  The zebu is basically the Malagasy cow.  It looks a little like our cows, but with big horns on the head.  Pictured below is the dining table before lunch.

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After lunch, Tsiry drove Nadine and I to our hotel to get some badly needed sleep.  Here are a couple of photos from the drive to the hotel.  Below we see zebu’s cooling off in a swamp.

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Workers in rice fields…

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A bus on the road into Tana…

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These buses, essentially big vans, are found everywhere in Tana.  You see people hanging off the back while riding down the street, and they are constantly pulling in and out of traffic.

Taxis in Tana…

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Above are some photos of taxis in Tana.  Notice the hill we’re driving up.  The city of Antananarivo is built into a very large hill.  I’m sure I’ll get more pictures over the coming weeks.  Also notice the cars.  I can’t remember the last time I saw a Renault 4.  They are everywhere here, and are apparently the car of choice for taxis.

We made it to our hotel, the Palissandre Hotel and Spa and checked in.  Very nice place, nicely decorated and furnished.  Seems to offer excellent service.  Here is a view from our room’s balcony at the Palissandre Hotel.

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After trying to catch up on some sleep for a few hours and taking a nice shower, Anita and her family arrived at the hotel to pick us up for dinner and a driving tour of Tana by night.  The hills in this place are steep!  I can tell this will become a challenge when we decide to do some exploring on foot.  Below is Nadine with Maya and Océane.

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Tsiry with Maya at the restaurant…

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After a fabulous dinner at a wonderful French restaurant, we headed back to the hotel for the night.  Below are some more photos of the Palissandre Hotel.

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