Day 11 – Antsiranana

We awoke early to catch a 9 AM flight from Tana to Antsiranana, also called Diego Suarez for the explorers who discovered the area.  The weather today sucks in Tana.  It’s cold and rainy from the effects of Cyclone Bondo.  However, this is a good thing, as we’re leaving Tana and going to the one area in the country where the skies are clear, because the cyclone has already passed through.

Below is a map showing Antsiranana in the very north of Madagascar.

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Here is a closer view of the Antsiranana area.

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Antsiranana is a city of about 110,000 in the north of Madagascar.  The climate and landscape is again different from the other areas of the country we have visited so far.  By straight line distance, Diego is about 760 km from Tana.  The map above shows that the city is located on one of 3 very large bays off the Indian Ocean, but is nicely sheltered in a natural harbour.  To give the above map some scale, it’s about 20 km from the port of Diego through the bays and into the open ocean.

Our flight appeared to be about 90% full on a Boeing 737 jet, and would take about 1 hour and 20 minutes.  Looking out the airplane window, everything appears very green and lush.  We are just entering the rainy season now, so if we had arrived a couple months ago, things would have probably looked very different.

We landed in Antsiranana, and the airport was small.  Actually, the airport was smaller than the airport in Morondava, but this one handles much more traffic!  They are doing renovations, which doesn’t help the overcrowding, but it is badly needed.  Apparently, the airport is being upgraded to be an international airport, with direct flights to neighboring countries as well as a direct flight to Paris.  Below is the entrance to the Antsiranana (Diego) airport (Code: DIE).

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As we arrived in the terminal, we were met by our ride to the hotel.  Unlike prior airport pickups, I was surprised to see an older white gentleman as our ride.  We learned during the ride to the hotel, that we were being picked up personally by the the Director of the hotel.  During the 10 km ride from the airport, he gave us information about the city and all the changes that have happened during the last 4 years under the current President.  Apparently they have paved 1,500 km of roads in the Diego area that were completely impassable just a few years ago, and built 750 new schools in Madagascar with many in the local area.

Another observation about the city is they apparently use the Renault 4 for taxis here too.  The only difference is the taxis in Tana are beige and in Diego they are yellow.  Our hotel transfer was in a new Toyota 4X4 SUV, not the Renault 4.

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We drove through a few flooded roads on the way to the hotel, likely the result of the cyclone that just passed through, but made it there without a problem.

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We arrived at the Grand Hotel without incident.  This is a very nice hotel (by Malagasy standards).  The hotel is new and has just about everything.  Very large and comfortable room with a view to the large pool.  Facilities inside the hotel include a bank, spa, tour agency, casino, bakery and a nice restaurant on the pool.

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Here is a view of the pool from our room balcony.

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After getting settled in our room that would be home for the next 4 days, we went downstairs to the tour operator to confirm the excursions that we had arranged for the next 2 days.

I was disappointed to learn that we would not be able to visit Cap d’Ambre in the extreme north of Madagascar.  It’s only a distance of 40 km north of the city, but normally takes 4 to 5 hours by 4WD truck to make the trip.  At the moment, the area is completely inaccessible by any vehicle and likely won’t be until May.  Cap d’Ambre is the extreme point of land that separates the Mozambique Channel from the Indian Ocean.  They have just finished rebuilding a lighthouse there that is something like 250 feet high and I wanted to visit it.  I also asked about taking a boat, but apparently that area is not accessible by boat either.  Mariners are advised to stay a minimum of 20 nautical miles off the Cap, which explains why they need such a large lighthouse.  All of this makes me wonder how they managed to build this thing (perhaps by helicopter?) and even more curious to see the place.  Maybe next time.  Anyway, we are all set up with a couple of very good tours for the coming days.

We then headed out on foot to explore the area and do some shopping.  After picking up some souvenirs, we walked down to the end of the main street and found a rather neglected park overlooking the bay.

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After some more exploring we also found the main port, and I also managed to find a lighthouse that I heard was on top of the office at the port.  I always manage to see at least one lighthouse on every trip.  Unfortunately, the manager, who was not very friendly, would not let us in for a closer look.

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By this point, we were getting tired and decided to walk back to the hotel for the night.  Our excursion the next morning was leaving at 7:30 AM.

Arriving back at the hotel, I took this picture of the front of the hotel by night.

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Day 10 – Christmas in Tana

Tratrin’ny Krismasy

Joyeux Noël

Merry Christmas

It is now Christmas, and as expected, we have no snow!  Actually, I don’t think Madagascar as ever seen snow.  Today we are going to Tsiry’s uncle’s house for a family gathering of about 60 people for lunch and partying.  I will get to see how the Malagasy celebrate Christmas.

Before heading over, we decided to check for an update on the cyclone, which is now hitting the north of Madagascar.  I found the map below tracking the path of Tropical Cyclone Bondo.  I added a green dot to the map at the city of Antsiranana in the extreme north of Madagascar, where we were due to go tomorrow.  The cyclone has already passed through, and is moving southwest.  If it continues this path, it should be well into the south by the time we are there, and we will hopefully have fair weather up there.  However, they have sometimes been known to reverse direction, so we’ll keep watching.

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Here is a radar image of Bondo’s current position.

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Anyway, enough about tomorrow.

I was wondering how they were going to get 60 people in a house, but Tsiry’s uncle has a very large house.  His living room, which was cleared out to make a dance floor, was about 1,000 square feet.  Below are some photos of the party.

There were lots of kids…

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Here’s the food!

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Theses people just love to dance and party!

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Later in the afternoon, we drove around a bit to see the east side of Tana before heading back to the hotel for the evening.  Back at the hotel, we packed and went to bed early, as our flight to Antsiranana was at 9 AM the next morning and we would have to get up early to get to the airport.

Day 9 – Morondava to Tana

We made it through the night in Morondava, and the air conditioning in our room worked very well.  One thing I’ve noticed of all places we’ve been, is the air conditioners look the same.  No place anywhere seems to have a central air conditioning system.  I haven’t seen any homes or stores with air conditioning, just hotel rooms, and sometimes they charge extra to use it.  It’s basically a unit built into the wall of the hotel room that is operated with remote control.  The picture below is of our hotel room in Morondava.

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Another common feature in hotel rooms here, is you must insert your room key into a slot in the wall to activate lights and air conditioning.  All of this leads me to believe that electricity is expensive and limited.  Tsiry tells me that typical electrical demand in Tana, a city of about 1.5 million, is about 125 megawatts, or about 83 watts per person (about as much as a single lightbulb).  Compare that to Ontario which I think is about 2,200 watts per person in the summer.

Anyway, back on topic, we went out into the heat of the patio for a light breakfast.  After breakfast, we just went back to the comfort of the air conditioned room.  The pool looked very nice, but with the intense sun, even going to the pool was just too hot.

Around noon, it was time for our ride to the Morondava airport to catch our flight back to Tana.  Here are some photos at the airport.  For such a small place that only gets 1 or 2 flights per day, the departures area was surprisingly large and comfortable.  It wasn’t air conditioned, but at least we could enjoy a cold drink.

Here is the main entrance to the Morondava airport (code: MOQ)…

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Here I am updating the travel blog in the departure area under a ceiling fan…

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Our plane as it arrived, and our luggage waiting to be loaded…

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So our plane arrived (see above), and we boarded the plane.  There were a total of about 8 people on this flight, so it didn’t take long for us to get on board and take off for Antananarivo early.  It couldn’t have been more than 15 minutes from the time the plane landed to the time we were airborne and heading back to Tana.

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We got back to Tana, and there was a significant temperature difference.  Morondava was 35ºC and Tana, which is only 370 km away by straight-line distance, was only 21ºC!  As the day progressed, it dropped even more, to the point where I put on a sweater.  The skies were getting grey and rainy for the first time since we’d been here, and it seems that we’re starting to feel the low pressure effects of tropical cyclone Bondo that is starting to threaten the northern area of Madagascar.  This could present a problem, and we will watch the storm closely, as on Dec 26 we are due to tour the north of Madagascar.  Just our luck that the only tropical storm on the radar anywhere in the world at the moment, just happens to be where we are due to go!

Anyway, the grey skies don’t present any problem for today, as we were planning on being inside.  Tonight we are heading to Tsiry’s parents for a Christmas eve dinner.  Before we go, we stop by the supermarket for some wine.  Just so you don’t think all stores are junky holes in buildings that look like they should be condemned, here’s a photo of a modern store.  It has a parking lot like any grocery store in Canada, and inside it’s like an RCSS store (but a little smaller) selling groceries, clothing, televisions, jewellery and other things you would expect in such a store.

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We then headed out to visit Tsiry’s parents.  Pictured here is an office building across the street from the supermarket, like any you might find in Canada.

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Here is a new road with nice pavement and four lanes!  This is a bypass around the city.

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We arrived at Tsiry’s parents place for Christmas Eve dinner.  It was a nice new house that he just finished building, located up on the mountain overlooking Tana.

Here is a photo of everyone after dinner.

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After dinner, we headed back to the hotel to relax for the evening.