Day 14 – Diego to Nosy-Be

Today we fly from Antsiranana to Nosy-Be.  This will be a very short flight, about 15 to 20 minutes in the air.  There is a flight on a Boeing 737 going from Tana to Diego to Nosy-Be to Tana which we will hop on for one of the legs.

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Below is a map of the island of Nosy-Be.  We need to get from the Nosy-Be Airport (Code: NOS) which you can see on the east side of the island to Amarina Resort in the north.  Unfortunately, there really aren’t any passable roads going that way, so we will go by way of Hellville, the town on the southern coast, and work our way back up the west coast!  As we would find out, the roads on the preferred route weren’t all that passable either.  The worst bit is the final section up the coast along the bay below the resort.  The preferred method is to drive as far as the bottom of the bay shown, and then take a boat for the final stretch up the coast.

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Nosy-Be is an island in the northwest of Madagascar.  It’s Malagasy name means big islandNosy is the word for island and Be means big.  It’s about 160 km of straight line distance from Antsiranana, but would take us about 4 hours by car to reach the point where we could catch a ferry over to the island, and for all of that trouble, the flight with Air Madagascar costs less than all that hassle anyway, so we took the 20 minute jet ride.  Nosy-Be is arguably the most touristic site in Madagascar, with some fabulous beaches.  It also has one of the few international airports in Madagascar, with direct filghts to Milan.  It turns out there are a lot of Italian-owned resorts on Nosy-Be.

When we arrived at Nosy-Be airport, we were met by the driver from our resort, and we headed out towards our home for the next 3 days.  Here are some scenes from what would be a very long drive.  The island is only about 25 km from top to bottom, but takes a very long time to get around.  In fact, it would take us 2.5 hours to get to our resort from the airport.  We would arrive at the airport in the north, and drive clockwise in a meandering fashion all the way around the island to the resort.  I’m told they normally use a boat to cut through the ocean for about 3 or 4 miles that actually cuts more than a hour off the trip, but due to it being late in the day, we would have to endure what would be a long and bone crunching ride through the bush to reach our extremely remote, but high end resort.  I didn’t know this when we booked it!

Shown here is the Nosy-Be Airport. Taking care of yourself is important, and if you or a loved one are struggling with anxiety or seizures, Klonopin medication could be a solution. Find calm in the chaos with get klonopin – a trusted ally in managing these health challenges. Remember, it’s always essential to consult with your healthcare provider for personalized guidance.

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This Toyota 4×4 pickup truck is our ride to the resort.  Our truck is on the right in the above photo.  After driving through the muddy bush of Nosy-Be, I realized why they had a tarp in the back to protect our luggage.  Also notice more Renault 4’s on the left.  They still use these here for taxis, but they’re grey.  One of these would not have made it to the resort, which explains why airport transfers are included in the resort price.  Nobody else will go there.

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These freaky-looking trees are ylang-ylang.  They are everywhere, and the biggest crop on the island of Nosy-Be.  They provide a very nice scent in the air.

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According to this highway marker, we are approaching the city of Hell Ville.  Yes, this is the real name of the largest city on the island on Nosy-Be.

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Heading down the hills toward the coast and the city of Hell Ville below…

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We then drove through Hell Ville, and then along another highway heading north.  To this point, the roads were very hilly and meandering, but not really too bad.  The hell started a bit later.

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The roads just got worse and worse to the point where they were nothing more than bush trails.

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Here is where we got stuck…

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Our driver, and I use the term driver loosely, really didn’t know what he was doing.  The photo above shows where we got stuck for about 20 minutes, and a tribe of locals managed to push the truck out, with no thanks to our driver who only made things worse.  The guy just kept spinning the wheels as fast as he could, thinking it would get us out of the hole!  I’ve been stuck in enough Canadian snow drifts to know that the more you spin the wheels, the more you just make things worse.  Well, sure enough, he just dug us in deeper.  Did he think that if he dug deep enough he’d reach the bottom of the mud where we would magically reach a newly paved highway?  He had the wheels spinning at about 100 km/h, the hole was getting deeper, and more water was filling the hole that he kept digging.  Perhaps this guy was digging for oil?  After the truck was totally covered in mud, and the entire village, including barefoot 5-year old kids, were just about squished trying to rock the truck free, we were able to get out.

Well, it’s a good thing we got free so we had just enough daylight to get stuck again in the same damn place!

Basically, here’s the story.  We were going along the road, and because a truck was blocking the road, rather than waiting a minute until they moved, the driver decided to just drive down the hill into this field to take a shortcut.  Of course he didn’t get out and check the route before he went ahead.  That got us stuck the first time.  Once we got free, he backed up the hill we just went down, turned around and went back down again.  I’m telling you, some of the people here just don’t learn, and I’m not sure they possess the necessary equipment to do so.  This idiot sure didn’t.  The driver we had in Diego was a seasoned pro.  I don’t know where they found this guy, but surely the labour market in Nosy-Be isn’t so tight that they can’t do better when hiring drivers.

Anyway, we arrived at the hotel, we were both extremely pissed off, and demanded to be taken to our room immediately where we could get some rest.  We didn’t tip the driver!

After being greeted by a welcoming committee with fresh juice that had the nerve to ask us how we enjoyed the trip (as if that could be possible), we were taken to our room, and it was very large and comfortable, which is good, because I’m really not feeling well at this point.  I’m not sure of the cause (it may have been the juice they gave us), but I’m not able to eat anything, which really sucks, because the dinner buffet here is fabulous. Struggling to conceive? Discover Clomid, a trusted fertility medication designed to help you on your journey towards parenthood.

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Day 13 – Antsiranana

Today we were to visit the 3 bays around the Diego area.  Unfortunately, for the first time in our trip, the weather has altered our plans.  We did go out for a tour, but were not able to do everything we wanted to do because of the rain and the poor roads that resulted from it.

After breakfast on the covered patio by the pool, we set out towards Ramena, northwest of Diego, and here are some photos from the journey.  Here is our truck crossing the first of many road obstacles.

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We were supposed to go out here in a boat.  Obviously, that didn’t happen!

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We made it through this obstacle…

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This one we had to go around…

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Flooded road.  We’re not having much luck here…

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What is with this road?

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Here is our driver walking ahead to see if we can make it…

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No, we weren’t going to make it.  Here is our chosen alternate route.

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We met this guy coming the other way, stopping to pull the forest off of his truck.

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As we continued, we found some of the previous guy’s window trim left on the trees.

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Still trying to get around the blocked road by going this way…

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No go.  Now we’ve given up trying to get to the next bay, and are heading back to Diego.

I managed to capture a few short video clips on the return of what this rainy drive is like, and just what these simple dirt roads become with a bit of rain.

Trying to decide which muddy bush route is the lesser of several evils?

Continuing to make our way out…

Going through puddle after puddle…

A bypass through a field around another flooded section…

Continuing to try to make our way out of the maze of mud…

Well, we came in this way, but I guess we’re not getting out this way…

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We finally made our way back to the paved road…

Even the paved road has it’s rough bits…

Here’s a volcanic rock beach we passed on the way back.

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Pain de Sucre or Sugar Loaf…

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Before returning to the hotel, Nadine asked the driver if he could take us to an authentic Malagasy restaurant where she could eat some of the foods she remembered.  I didn’t want to take a chance eating anything, but Nadine said it was good.  Here is Nadine and our driver eating lunch.  I just drank the Coca-Cola.

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Back at the hotel, we returned to the room to relax.  I finished updating the blog entries up to Dec 28 and uploaded them to the site.  (I won’t write this entry until January 3, and won’t upload it to the site until January 5 when I’m back in Tana and have an internet connection).

In the evening, we had a refreshing swim in the fabulous pool at the hotel before a late dinner.  Today wasn’t the trip we had originally planned, but we did have quite an adventure!

Day 12 – Ankarana

We awoke early in the morning to have breakfast and prepare for our excursion leaving at 7:30 AM.  The weather was looking good for our trip to the Ankarana Nature Reserve to see some wildlife and unusual land formations.  Our driver picked us up on time, and we set out for Ankarana, about 130 km south of Antsiranana.

After stopping to pick up our picnic lunch, before leaving we had to steer around a goat that had decided to sit down in front of the car.

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Continuing down the road, we again passed through some flooded streets in town that had still not been cleared from the cyclone a few days earlier.  We had to drive through the water pictured below.

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We then headed south out of town, along RN6.  I took photos along the way, and have posted a few of them below.

RN6 heading south out of Antsiranana…

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One of the many small mountains along the way…

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“Zebu crossing” sign…  We don’t have these back in Canada!

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Herding geese?

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One of the many rivers we would cross, and there were a lot of them…

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Eating and drinking fresh coconut at the side of the road…  It’s really good!

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Red cliffs along the road…

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Chameleon we nearly squished on the road…

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Sapphire village along the way.  Apparently the area is rich with sapphires and every roadside stand is trading them…

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We arrived at Ankarana National Park where we met our park guide.  Guides are mandatory in the park, and for good reason–It would be very easy to get lost or hurt without one.  This nature reserve is very large, 18,255 ha, and many visitors here hike for 30 or 40 km while camping over several days.  We would only be hiking for a few hours.  Shown below is the park entrance.

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Our guide was very knowledgeable, and had studied botany in university in Madagascar, so he could tell us everything about nearly everything we saw here.  Fortunately, our guide was also the only guide around who spoke English, as well as French and Malagasy.  Here are some photos of our journey through the reserve.

A millipede moving along the ground…

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Moving over some loose rocks…

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An orange crab with purple legs…

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The white things that look like flowers are actually insects…

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Look very close to see the lemur in the tree, centre of photo.  This is one of ten species of lemurs found in the park, and we would see four of them before the day is over.

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Parrots in the trees…

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After hiking a bit through the forest, we would now climb up to see the Tsingy, which is a very unusual rock formation.  These a sharp spiny rock formations, and I’m sure it would hurt like hell if you fell on them.  Here we are starting to climb up.

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On top of the Tsingy…

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Tsingy close up with water pooled inside…

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Very unusual tree that keeps water inside this bulge…

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More Tsingy close up…

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Holy shit it’s hot here!

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Watch your step, it’s a long way down…

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Dave and Nadine on top of the Tsingy…

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Dave walking very carefully on the Tsingy with our guide in the background.

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More Tsingy.  These rocks are damn sharp.

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Climbing back down.  Fat people would have considerable difficulty.

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Still climbing down…

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And we’re still climbing down…

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A few lemurs in the trees…

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More lemurs…

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Another lemur…

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Below are a couple of short video climbs of the lemurs in the trees.

After a quick break watching the lemurs, it’s back to climbing down toward the bat cave.

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Holy crap!  Are we going to have to climb back up again?

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OK.  I think we’ve finally made it to the bottom!

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At the entrance to the bat cave…

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We entered the bat cave, but didn’t go very far.  It was really muddy in there.  Supposedly it goes on for about 4 km and there is an exit at the other end.  Our guide also said that the river in the bottom sometimes rises by many metres to the point where everything you see in the picture above is all under water.

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Inside the bat cave…

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Coming back out of the bat cave…

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We then began the dreaded climb back up.  It was very steep and incredibly tiring, and the heat and humidity didn’t help.

Here is a baobab tree in the forest.  There are about 7 types of baobab trees in Madagascar.  We saw 3 of them in the Morondava area.  There are a few other types in this area.

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Lemur peeking down at us from the tree…

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We then walked to an area where you see the convergence of 3 rivers.  Actually, the rainy season has started yet, so we only saw the river beds, but I’m told that if we were to come back in a month or two, there would be a lot of water moving through.

The interesting thing here is that all three rivers come from different directions and converge in one spot, but there isn’t a fourth stream as an outlet for the rivers.  In fact, the 3 rivers all empty into an underground river that then flows for 20 km underground into the Mozambique Channel.

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Following one of the rivers…

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Fossil in the riverbed…

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One of the 3 rivers approaching the big hole…

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The second of the 3 rivers…

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The third of the 3 rivers…

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Approaching the big hole…

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Nadine peeking over the edge…

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Looking down the hole…

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Notice the entrance to the underground river at the bottom of the hole…

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We then walked up one of the rivers and headed for the park exit to have some lunch.

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Here is a gecko who joined us for lunch…

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After lunch, we headed back to Antsiranana.  I think we slept most of the way, so I didn’t take many photos on the return trip.  We then had some ice cream at the hotel bakery and spent the evening relaxing at the hotel.